The White Peaks - the perfect escape from Delhi
I crossed the Ganga at sunrise. Well, I say sunrise; it was more that misty white haze that conceals even the least special of highway towns. There is rarely a glorious, celebratory sunrise in Delhi or the plains that surround the city. Day creeps in apologetically in muted, chalky tones. The canopy of smog mars any clarity and the thick air is damp, even in winter. Along the highway to Nainital, skeletal trees are interspersed with pylons, half-finished concrete homes and